This issue has taken a minute to get together due to a combination of deadlines, some other work things, and also the fact I completely lost the recipe for the chilli sauce I featured this week. I couldn’t find the original source at all, and spent days trying to triangulate it via: the date I took a photo of the sauce, the food I made that week, and the browsing history on my iPhone. It took forever but I did find it!
Anyway let me know what you’re making, what you’re struggling to use up, and what you plan to do with all the turnips in your fridge.
1. Meatball noodle soup
So pleased with how this turned out. I made Alison Roman’s ginger and garlic meatballs this week, which we had with rice and crunchy veg. But I knew we’d end up making more than we needed, so once I’d rolled out enough for Rob and I, I started making some conker-sized meatballs that I shoved in the bottom of the oven to cook alongside.
I wanted to use the leftovers in a clear broth with noodles — the meatballs already contain ginger, garlic, and fish sauce, so the hope was the cooked meatballs, simmered in a chicken stock I’d made a week or so prior, would release some of these rich flavours into the dish. I used dried egg noodles, fresh coriander, and a drizzle of chilli sauce (see below).
These are pork meatballs, but I think turkey ones would be good too. And if you don’t have a vat of golden stock lying around, you could always shove these meatballs in a pitta with some shredded lettuce instead.
2. Greek Yogurt Flatbreads
Has this happened to you? You buy Greek yogurt (maybe for breakfast, maybe for a recipe) and then half a tub sits in the fridge for a while and then it goes off, and smells bad. When we needed some (for an Alison Roman meatball recipe — I know, I never heard of it being used as a binding agent either) I decided to find a way to use up the leftovers.
I saw a few different recipes online for yogurt flatbreads, and the one I settled on was the most simple: one cup of Greek yogurt, and one cup of flour. That’s it. I added a generous amount of nigella and fennel seeds (cumin seeds might also be nice) and plenty of salt — I’ve done variants on these before and when you don’t salt the flatbreads they taste really awful. Mix and knead ingredients into a dough, divide into four, and on a floured surface, roll each one out as thin as you can without tearing them.
All you need to do is heat them in a pan. I lightly oil the breads, not the pan, which I keep as dry as possible. You can easily double this recipe and freeze a few of these when you need something to dunk in your soup,, but if you do keep them out, wrap them in a tea towel and keep in your bread bin. If they start to go stale, cut them up and toast them and use them as a vehicle for hummus or something. Below, the flatbreads with a white bean and miso soup I made.
3. An incredibly useful chilli sauce
I saw this in the Observer last month — it’s used in Mandy Yin’s recipe for anchovy fried rice (which, if you need a quick and cheap meal, I would really recommend. It’s delicious). I decided to double the quantities and keep it in the fridge for drizzling on any and every edible surface I could find.
My favourite thing about it is that it’s simple and endlessly customisable. 60g of dried chilli flakes, 2 tbsp of dark brown sugar, half a teaspoon of salt, and 420ml of water. You put everything in a saucepan, bring to the boil, then turn off the heat and let it settle for an hour. Then, bring it to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes before blending it into a sauce.
It’s a good condiment because it’s kind of warm and roasty and sweet but it isn’t “hot”. You could add different chilli flakes (alleppo pepper for something fruitier, a pinch of urfa for a rich smokiness) or even a splash of vinegar if you want it more puckerish. I put it on pizzas, in soups, and over sheet pans of chicken and vegetables.
The Week In Scraps (aka the Scrapbook aka some things I ate that are nice to look at)
The perfect TV watching snack: bresaola and Pringles
Valentine’s Day at Quality Chop House. Not pictured: a humongo sirloin for two
My lovely Dad used to make a fantastic turnip and lamb curry, actually made a sprout one once too. He was all for giving veg a curry makeover.